Whilst we cannot and will not forget Grimod de la Reynière’s incredible contribution to the foundation of Gastronomy, there is one character and work that concentrates, elevates and perpetuates this incredible field more than any other. Anthelme Brillat-Savarin is, with his book Physiologie du Gout, or Physiology of Taste (POT), a notch above and maybe more.
This year 2025 we are celebrating the 200th birthday of the printing of this extraordinary account. In a year which seems focused on promoting fast-food, fast-thought, polarisation and settling accounts on the world stage, the instilled panic may give rise to « The End of the World » as described by BS in Meditation 10.
Given our propensity to exaggeration as «…we seem only too eager to surround such a catastrophe with avenging fury, with destructive angels and the sound of trumpets, and other no less horrifying accompaniments.» Meditation 10, Verse 54, it seems that a little reason could be lifesaving. Hence, the philosophy of Gastronomy is more than ever important as it remains the best way to bring people to talk: at a table around a good meal. «…from this is born political gastronomy.» M.3, V.21
And this is why POT is such a fundamental work. Beyond a few recipes, beyond Grimod’s quest for excellent produce and comments on such and such a restaurant, POT is an all encompassing work, exposing Gastronomy as not only a thing of the mouth, but also one of society.
The 400 page book, printed in December 1825, just two months before BS’s death, deals with subjects as wild and far apart as Armageddon, as we just saw, Dreams or the Erotic Properties of Truffles.
For instance, this recollection worthy of the words of an apostle, portrays Gastronomy as an element that defines the destiny of nations. Indeed, nations depend on the way they eat, as time spent at the table bonding and interacting can give way to a strong social fabric and social and physiological consequences of poor eating habits will strongly impact economics and health of a nation over the long run. More so, «Meals have become a means of governing, and the fate of whole peoples is decided at a banquet. » M.3, V.21
It is a testimony of a world curious about science - which is relatively new then - and its virtues : « The science of Gastronomy appeared like the others in her turn, and all her sisters drew near to cede a proper place to her.» BS calls upon physics and chemistry to understand the best way to culinary perfection, underlining along the way the importance of keeping a broad vision.
Indeed, POT brings us back to the dawn of « democratic » science, maybe a heritage of the Italian « Science & Arts », with Leonardo as a forerunner (-1), where these two poles still interacted and it was expected from well read individuals to have insight into both; and where the depth of knowledge wasn’t so deep that one could not have both a broad vision coupled to detailed understanding, something we seem to lack nowadays, either talking shallow about everything or miles deep about nothing.
It is an incursion into the realm of linguistics, already criticising the inability of the French language to unchain itself from the great century of Louis XIV. In this effort, BS consecrated the word « Gastronomy » partially popularised by Joseph Berchoux à quarter of a century before. Then, BS goes on to expand on another unique word, « Gourmandise », which seems to have no equivalent in any other language.
Gourmandise, translated as Gourmandism in Fischer’s 1949 translation, is «…an impassioned, considered and habitual preference for whatever pleases the taste». Going further, social Gourmandise «…unites an Attic elegance with Roman Luxury and French subtlety». M.11, V.55
BS manages to justify Gourmandise as a « modification introduced into the scheme of things for the benefit of the ladies» and immediately thereafter underlines the moral importance of Gourmandise as « an implicit obedience of the rules of the Creator…who invites us to do so with appetite, encourages us with flavor and rewards us with pleasure.» A very different perspective than that of certain protestants. A single sentence worthy of a butterfly’s impact in time.
Touching upon geopolitics, his comment relating to vegetarians could be perceived as central in today’s opposing opinions: « …it is hard to imagine a nation which would live solely on bread and vegetables.»
The book addresses the questions not only of health, but also the economics of Gastronomy, exposing the links between trade and the table : « Gourmandise offres great resources to the government : it adds to taxes, to duties» or, anticipating the conquering of the world by French chefs, « What shall we say of the hundreds of cooks who, for several centuries now, leave France every year to exploit the appetites of other lands? » M.11, V.56
Socially and politically, its impact is enormous as it is a roadmap of sorts for a new way of sharing a meal, of perceiving it and of exposing social rank through its practice. Coming out of the revolution, the middle-class didn’t have a role model to aspire to anymore. It had to create its own sense of uniqueness but without resorting to aristocratic-like exclusion. Brillat provided a « noble » approach to commensality through curiosity and science, exposing how this was ultimately every citizen’s concern and hence in line with the times.
It isn’t an essay nor a novel but an unintended compilation of decades of matured observations and notes. It reminds us, in these times of hurry and speed, that maturing wine or thoughts brings about the best in many things.
BS may be seen as a visionary when he announced that there would be an academy of gastronomers «for it is inconceivable that gastronomy, before too many years, will not have its own academicians, its professors, its courses»M.3, V.22. Indeed, in France we have the Villa Rabelais notably, great schools in Italy or in Spain also.
Indeed, they have their plate full. There is a lot to be studied as « Gastronomy is the intelligent knowledge of whatever concerns man’s nourishment.» (M.3, V.22) Two words in particular illustrate the breadth of this field while also underlining the fundamentals: « intelligent » and « whatever ».
But more importantly, the subtitle to his book - Meditations on Transcendental Gastronomy - may be even more revealing than the title itself and point to the heart of what Gastronomy is, even if seems to have lost itself for a while. Though mentioned in the 1848 and 1867 versions, the 1982 French version doesn’t mention this spiritual perspective : the subtitle is simply absent. But considering the world today and the importance of belief, it would be wise to bring back a little spirituality into the realm of Gastronomy.
Because that is what distinguishes Gastronomy from cooking and culinary practices: Gastronomy encompasses a spiritual realm conveying to this field something quite unique: a spirituality infused with humor, dedication and « légèreté ».
For these reasons and many more, I decided early 2024 that it was only fair to pay tribute to our gastronomic mentor and to celebrate this incredible bicentenary.
This tribute has taken the shape of a novel, inspired by Gastronomy and BS, placed in the modern context of abundance, hygienism, fast-food, culinary afflictions and many other modern traits.
This intense work took up my usual time dedicated to Biztronomy and explains my many months of absence. But it paid off and notwithstanding last minute corrections, the novel will be finalized by the end of this month.
So it is my pleasure to announce that I will be diffusing this novel over the coming year, chapter by chapter, so that we may all meditate together on the virtues and pleasures of this great discipline and remember its founders, whether they be Berchoux, Grimod or Brillat-Savarin; and more importantly yet, realize that Gastronomy was built on 3000 years of culture starting with Homer.
May 2025 offer you the most incredible Gastronomy with the most enjoyable company!
Philippe Cartau
Passages taken from M.F.K. Fisher's translation from 1949, republished in 2000 by Counterpoint
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