After serving as a purchasing power index, the burger may become a political index as well. Anyone keen for power should heed the symbolism carried by a paddy. The US presidential election is a case in point.
Some may recall the Sleazeburger article. I had disagreed strongly with the perceived message arising from the movie "The Menu" with Ralph Fienes. Focusing on what seemed to me as an unjust attack on Gastronomy, I hadn’t seen the political perspective behind the scenario. Looking at it more closely though, and with external contributions, it turns out the movie can be seen as a premonition of the latest US elections.
As a quick reminder, after a sublime and artful last diner, the Chef played by Ralph Fienes blows up the restaurant with all its guests, save one who watches the firework from a boat whilst savoring a hamburger made by this same chef.
Listening to commentators and electors following the November 4th landslide, it seems the posh and cosmopolitan have blow up in the same way, unable to understand that the majority of the population doesn’t want some esoteric dinner or to be fed with some mind twisting concepts.
The President elect countered with his own menu, something understandable, down to earth, very close to a burger meal with a lot of salt, fat and sugar. But not just any burger meal.
One of the most marking pictures of the President Elect shortly after the results doesn’t show him in a spiffy three starred restaurant. Instead, he can be seen with Elon, a symbol of success, enjoying a « McDonald » in a slick business jet, maybe 30 000 feet high.
It seems to me these two culinary opposites could serve as a marker between a « disconnected group » and a « get real » group.
And I understand the rebellion. Manners and refinement are like Esope’s tongue, ambivalent, either a way to bring people together or to separate them. A whiff of aristocratic aspiration projected in fancy ideas and in soulless restaurants is above all a way to separate the people, not to bring them together. And for whoever the words « We the People… » ring a bell, this hint of social secession is unthinkable.
But, do we need to counter one extreme with another ? Considering my last adventure facing a trans-formed burger as opposed to all the incredible burgers around the world, I find it ludicrous to think that to we have to resort to such standardisation to demonstrate we are not snobs.
In fact, even worse, there is something very communist-like about this leveling by the lowest common denominator. It is a curious way of illustrating our adherence to the principle of equality where not a single head is above the other. What we call the meal of Procuste. One size fits all, even the king size.
But..."thing" in the picture above is not the burger the movie the Menu offers. The burger thoroughly enjoyed during the grand spectacle of the restaurant blowing up to smithereens was one made with pleasure. Indeed, Fienes made this last burger with evident joy and was overcome by the emotion of past memories. This scene reminds us that the foundation of Gastronomy is pleasure, in cooking, eating and sharing : pleasure is one of the foundational pillars of Gastronomy.
Thus, fortunately, there is still hope in societal improvement, in the joint search for quality produce and passion-filled burgers, custom made preferably.
Now, beyond the symbols, what do the figures say ? Can we predict an election based on burger sales. Can the Big Mac serve as a political index in addition to being a currency index?
According to Chatty (see below), after a slow-down in US sales, McDonald’s has regained momentum, but mostly because of its digital and delivery strategy. But if the figures can't give a prediction on the poles, a broader picture with restaurant segmentation might give us a better view of social trends and community breakdowns.
As a side note, France's "universalim" is indeed reflected in its gastronomy in the sense where it isn't the origin that counts in the dish, but rather the approach and philosophy that drive the WAY we cook and eat.
Speaking of the devil, what of France, then, in the midst of political chaos? Could the burger give us some form of political clarity? McDonald’s sales plummeted by 8% in France earlier this year. Let’s hope that doesn’t reflect what is to come with GDP! Some say this loss is a result of the boycott in the wake of the chain’s support for Israel. On the other hand, Quick with its new halal offer seems to be doing well.
Conclusion? I think the burger is definitely political!
Philippe
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